Photography by Chay Berger
food prep by leah hamaoui

Hey! I’m Leah Hamaoui. Welcome to my column Heart to Table. The name of this column really says it all. Cooking is a language we use to show love and care to our families. From the moment you walk into the supermarket to buy ingredients until the second you place the dish on the table, you’re creating memories. We’re about to embark on a flavorful adventure to unravel a rich tapestry of Middle Eastern spices and dishes that will leave you wanting more. These Sephardic dishes will open a window to a world of flavor you didn’t know existed.

Sephardic cooking can be a little intimidating to some, whether due to its novelty or uniqueness in flavor. However, I believe that once you realize how exciting and simple it is, you’ll have some brand-new family favorites.

Allow me to introduce my culinary philosophy. I celebrate simplicity! Complexity in the kitchen will take a back seat as we explore easy-to-make dishes that explode with authentic flavor. I like to call them flavor bombs. They’re designed to bring joy to your kitchen without any of the stress. Cooking is more than just a task; it’s a heartfelt experience from start to finish. The kitchen is your canvas, and each dish is a masterpiece crafted with love and attention to detail.

Within the routine and busyness of life, we forget to realize how precious it is to be able to take mundane tasks and turn them into moments of magic by putting our heart and neshamah into them. So the next time you make supper, remind yourself, “With my cooking, I’m demonstrating the highest level of love and care for my family.”

Ready or not, I want to see aprons on, spoon in one hand, black pepper in the other, and a massive smile on your face. See you next month!

Love, Leah

Moroccan Meat Cigars

These cigars, filled with a perfectly spiced meat mixture, are both addictive and delicious. You’ll find them on both Moroccan and Syrian meat boards (mazza platters). They’re so easy to make and totally worth it!

YIELDS 12 CIGARS

• 4 Tbsp oil, plus more for frying
• 1 small onion, diced
• 1 lb (450 g) ground beef
• salt and pepper, to taste
• ½ tsp cayenne pepper
• 1 tsp cumin
• ¼ tsp cinnamon
• 12 spring roll wrappers
• 1 egg white, beaten with 2 Tbsp water for egg wash

Add 4 Tbsp oil to a pan over medium-high heat. Add onion and sauté until golden brown.

Add the ground beef and lower the heat. Break up the meat into small pieces and cook through until no longer pink. Add salt and pepper, then add the rest of the spices and mix until combined. Set aside to cool.

Transfer the meat mixture to a bowl, and using an immersion blender, blend the meat until smooth.

To assemble, place each spring roll on a flat surface with one corner facing you (it should look like a diamond).

Dip your finger into the egg wash and spread a thin layer around the edges of the wrapper. Place a heaping tablespoon of the meat mixture onto the bottom third of the wrapper and shape the filling into a horizontal log.

Fold the right and left edges of the wrapper over the ends of the filling, and starting at the closed horizontal edge, roll up the wrapper until the beef cigar shape is formed. At the tip, add a bit more egg wash to seal the deal! Transfer the cigar onto a large plate and repeat with the rest of the cigars.

Add 1 inch of oil to a wide frying pan over medium-high heat. Once the oil is sizzling, gently place beef cigars into the pan, without overcrowding. Fry the cigars until golden brown and then flip to fry the other side until golden brown, about 1½ minutes per side. Transfer onto a paper towel-lined tray and continue frying the remaining cigars in batches, adding more oil as needed.

Harissa Aioli

I like to make a perfectly spicy aioli to pair with these cigars. They’re delicious on their own, but this aioli adds a powerful kick. Super easy to make and so full of flavor!

• 1 cup mayonnaise
• 1 Tbsp freshly squeezed lemon juice
• 2 cloves garlic, minced
• 1 tsp harissa (I like the Marrakesh brand)
• 2–3 Tbsp water (depending on how thick you like it)

Mix all ingredients together in a bowl until it reaches a smooth consistency.

Tip: While working on the cigars, cover the rest of the spring roll wrappers with a damp cloth to prevent them from drying out.

(Originally featured in Family Table, Issue 876)