Pan-Seared Squab
| December 28, 2016
Photography by Moishe Wulliger
Called “the bird of royalty” squab has been popular among members of the French nobility as far back as the Middle Ages and enjoyed in cuisines as far back as ancient Egypt. Because of the delicate nature of the dish and because it is relatively difficult to find high-quality products such as Pelleh Squab in global markets squab has remained a status symbol in modern cooking.
There is an interesting old Yerushalmi wedding minhag including this prized dish. After the chuppah some chassanim and kallos break their fast in the yichud room on two squabs tied together with a red ribbon.
Squab is beloved for its rich meaty flavor. Similar in taste to duck squabs contain all dark meat and a majority of the meat is concentrated in the breast with very minimal meat on the thighs and legs. Their flavor is richer and gamier than other types of poultry and they pair well with bold flavors like dried fruits balsamic vinegar or wines that pair with beef or lamb like Bordeaux.
Cooking squab is similar to cooking beef in that it is best cooked rare to medium rare. But because it has relatively fatty skin like duck it’s important to render or melt that fat by starting the bird over low heat and slowly increasing it. Starting to cook a squab in a hot pan will cook the meat before the fat has a chance to melt resulting in chewy meat. Also like duck squab is best served at medium rare not well done like poultry is conventionally cooked in the United States.
INGREDIENTS
SERVES 4 AS AN APPETIZER OR 2 AS A MAIN DISH
- 2 Pelleh Squabs
- 2 T Pelleh Pure Rendered Duck Fat or margarine softened
- 1 clove garlic
- ½ shallot
- 1 T thyme or parsley stems removed and roughly chopped plus more for garnish
Strawberry Glaze
- 8 oz (225 g) fresh or frozen strawberries (about 2 cups)
- ½ cup good quality cabernet sauvignon
- ¼ cup balsamic vinegar
- 2 T maple syrup
- 1 T whole-grain mustard
- 1 T soy sauce
- Salt
- Pepper
PREPARATION
Preheat the oven to 400°F (200°C) degrees. Then create the compound duck fat: In a small bowl combine the duck fat or margarine thyme or parsley and clove of garlic crushed. Chop the shallot to a medium dice and then crush in a garlic press a few pieces at a time and combine. Use your finger to gently loosen the squab skin from the meat and spread half of the duck fat under the skin of each bird. Thoroughly salt and pepper both sides of the squabs. Heat a large skillet over medium–low heat and place the squabs skin-side down. Cook about 5 minutes then flip and cook another 5 minutes then finish in the oven for another 5 minutes. The meat should be rare to medium rare.
For Strawberry Glaze
To make the sauce bring the strawberries wine and maple syrup to a boil then simmer until the strawberries are very soft. Blend with an immersion blender and return to heat until reduced to about 1¼ cups. Add balsamic vinegar mustard and soy sauce then bring to a simmer and further reduce for about 5 minutes. Spoon the glaze over finished squab and garnish with additional herbs.
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