The lowdown on what works and why

Quality and Quantity

My go-to foundation is the It Cosmetics CC+ Cream. (It’s pricey, but sometimes their website has some lovely sales.) It comes in a variety of formulations, meant for different skin types — I like the Illumination version for the glow factor. It touts a number of claims: antiaging, moisturizing, concealing, etc.,etc. It also has SPF 50.

However, do I rely on it for sunscreen? I do not.

With sunscreen, it’s not just quality ; quantity matters. For adequate sunscreen protection, two finger lengths of product has to be applied. Do I apply two finger lengths of CC+ Cream? No, because if I did, I’d look shellacked (plus it’s expensive. I’m not burning through it so fast). On a daily basis, at most, I need a few small dabs to even out my skin tone, and that’s not going to protect me from the sun.

First, I schmear my face with the Neutrogena Purescreen+ Tinted Mineral Sunscreen SPF 30. That goes on with a heavy hand, and then, for areas that need further coverage, in comes the CC+ Cream.

The same premise holds for SPF moisturizers, like Cetaphil’s variety of Daily Facial Moisturizers. Unless one’s skin is SUPER dry, daily moisturizer is not usually applied in the required quantities necessary for skin protection.

Remember: 99 percent of skincare is sun protection (even in winter).

For Sensitive, Go Synthetic

“Soap,” as we know it, has its origins in natural processes; historically, it is a fat (whether animal- or plant-based) combined with ash (known as lye). In the time of the Greeks and Romans, soap was harsh, and it was reserved for washing clothing; people cleansed themselves by applying oil, scraping it off, then bathing (the original double cleansing). When the Romans encountered the Gauls, they were introduced to their milder soaps and eventually adopted them for hygiene as well.

While natural, the pH of soaps can be irritating on sensitive or dry skin, especially in the winter. Most body soaps nowadays won’t say “soap” but “cleansing bar” or “beauty bar,” because they aren’t technically soap — they’re syndents.

Unlike soap, syndents (short for “synthetic detergent”) are chemically sourced, yet they are gentle on skin, with a lower pH than standard soap. (If a soap bar says “pH balanced,” it isn’t soap by its technical definition.) Made from a combination of surfactants, conditioners, humectants, and pH adjusters, it cleans well without stripping sensitive skin or irritating eczema and other conditions.

In my ignorant past, I once recommended Castile soap (made from plant oils and lye), believing that it was gentler than regular bar soap. The person ended up with a large, irritated sore on their leg. The dermatologist that was consulted recommended switching to Dove.

Dove isn’t soap; it says “beauty bar” very clearly on the label. When you know better, you do better: I pick up the fragrance-free version for myself in Costco (on sale!).

Collagen Supplements?

Collagen is the protein that keeps skin youthful and supple, and the body begins to decrease collagen production in one’s twenties. Topical collagen has been proven to be useless, as it cannot be absorbed by the skin. So the question is: Do collagen supplements prevent inevitable collagen loss?

Collagen is now the supplement du jour, with everything-but-the-kitchen-sink claims: muscle health, bone health, joint health, gut health, heart health, hair health, and skin health. I’m personally a tad leery of one product being capable of healing literally everything, but for the purpose of this column, we shall see if there is any benefit to skin.

When collagen is consumed and hits the digestion system, it is broken down into amino acids, as any protein does. Then, those amino acids are assigned where needed in the body — and skin collagen isn’t necessarily high on the priority list.

For ideal absorption, we look at hydrolyzed collagen, which has already been broken down into amino acids/peptides. There are three types of collagen, and they serve different purposes. Type 1 is associated with skin health, and is found primarily in marine collagen. Bovine collagen contains Type 1 and Type 3, and by working together, they supposedly have multiple benefits in the body, along with skin elasticity. (Type 2, associated with chickens, is for cartilage and tissue.) Collagen is extracted from animal skin and bones by dissolving them in enzymes or acids. Due to this extensive level of processing, bovine collagen is considered pareve.

At this time, only a few small and potentially biased studies have shown any benefit from oral collagen in terms of skin. However, it is considered to be a relatively harmless supplement, providing that it doesn’t contain large concentrations of heavy metals. (Supplements are not under FDA oversight.)

Considering the current lack of evidence, dermatologists rather recommend what has been proven to help with skin health: sunscreen(!!), retinol, limited sugar, limited alcohol, and no smoking or secondhand smoke exposure.

(Originally featured in Mishpacha, Issue 974)