Exfoliation is a way to coax the unattractive dead cells to move on earlier than they would like

Fresh Face Formula

Exfoliating your way to radiant skin

Skin, the largest organ of the body, is comprised of three layers. The tippity-top one, often called the skin barrier, is made up of multiple layers of dead cells. These cells do — eventually — move on. Yet, until they do, skin can look dull or flaky, gunk and grime can accumulate and cause breakouts, or skin can become bumpy and rough.

For many of us, exfoliation is a way to coax the unattractive dead cells to move on earlier than they would like, revealing brighter skin beneath them.

A word of caution: You mustn’t exfoliate daily. Too much, too often, can damage the skin barrier, and then skin will be really unhappy. There are many ways to exfoliate, and the frequency depends on what sort of product you use, its strength, and your skin type.

The first type of exfoliation is physical, such as a scrub that contains small particles that buff the skin, or a textured loofah to rub on the feet. Personally, I’ve moved away from physical scrubs for the face, as many (such as the apricot pit versions) actually damage the skin in the process.

The next type is chemical, which utilizes acids to unglue the bonds from skin cells so they leave. Chemical is more ideal than physical as it’s less irritating, less damaging, more even, more targeted (based on the type of chemical used) and if done right, even the sensitive-skinned can do it.

There are two main families of chemicals for exfoliation. Chemical family 1 is called AHAs, an acronym for alpha hydroxy acids, such as glycolic acid and lactic acid. These are ideal for normal to dry skin. AHAs are water soluble and stick to the skin’s surface. Glycolic acid, in particular, is comprised of smaller molecules that can go even deeper than other AHAs and treat acne as well as fine lines.

In terms of hyperpigmentation — a.k.a dark spots — if fair-skinned, glycolic acid can also buff those away. However, for those with medium to dark skin tones, it can actually make hyperpigmentation worse.

Removing old skin cells also encourages their replacement with new skin cells. This, in turn, can cause skin to thicken, growing plump with collagen. It also helps the skin preserve moisture, and trains it to produce its own hyaluronic acid, so that skin will preserve moisture on its own.

The Ordinary Glycolic Acid 7% Exfoliating Toner is currently in vogue as a near cure-all: for flaky scalp (applied 15 to 30 minutes before showering), smelly or cracked feet (apply to feet, top with moisturizer, and seal that in with socks), keratosis pilaris, a.k.a. chicken skin, which is caused by a buildup of excess keratin, typically appearing on the arms and legs (simply apply); and even on hands, which can show signs of aging (follow with a rich moisturizer). Many note that while it’s fine on the body, it’s too harsh for the face; try Cerave Skin Renewing Nightly Exfoliating Treatment instead.

For those with sensitive skin, glycolic acid will probably be too harsh. Lactic acid is a better option for gentle exfoliation, such as The Ordinary Lactic Acid 5% + HA Exfoliating Serum, or Amlactin products, which contain lactic acids in various strengths.

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hemical family 2 is called BHAs, or beta hydroxy acids, typically salicylic acid. These are best for combination, oily, or acne-prone skin. BHAs are oil soluble, so they can go deeper into the skin, dissolving clogs in pores and staving off breakouts.

Clogged pores can also lead to whiteheads and blackheads, which salicylic acid can clear out. It also balances sebum production; less sebum, less problems in the first place. Salicylic acid also tones down redness and reduces inflammation.

With initial use there might be a “purge” reaction as the salicylic acid increases cell turnover, and acne lurking under the skin comes to the surface. Things should improve with continued use.

If using a BHA cleanser — like Cerave Renewing SA Cleanser (for combination or oily skin) or the Acne Control Cleanser (for acne) — which will be on the skin for just a couple of minutes before you wash it off, you could probably use it daily. But if you’re using BHA in serum form, go slowly until your skin adapts to it.

Some suggested products: The Inkey List Beta Hydroxy Acid (BHA) Blemish + Blackhead Serum; Naturium Salicylic Acid Serum 2%.

If you’re new to the whole exfoliation shtick, start off slowly, exfoliating only once a week — skin needs time to adjust — then move up to twice a week. If your skin is sensitive, always patch test first before applying all over. Additionally, only apply exfoliants at night, not in the morning. When going out: sunscreen, sunscreen, sunscreen! Skin can become more sensitive to the sun with exfoliation. Whenever using an exfoliating product, be sure to top with a basic moisturizer like Cetaphil to soothe your skin afterward. And don’t mix exfoliants with other actives, like retinol, at the same time. Skin can only handle so much.

(Originally featured in Family First, Issue 926)