Expert Eye: Thread Lightly
| April 8, 2025A guide to the best spring fabrics
I’ve risked my entire bank balance by walking into these showrooms, and I’ve walked out with enough free samples to sew a beketshe for a Bentley. For information on finding the best spring fabrics, I spoke to Judy Friedman of Judy Friedman Design, Donna Randazzo of JAB Anstoetz, and Simona Musti of Fortuny. According to these experts, the best and highest-quality spring fabrics are cotton, linen, and silk.
Somebody Pinch Me
Donna demonstrates how a designer can handle a roll of fabric to see if the material drapes. “You hold up a few yards and pinch it at the top. If it folds elegantly below the pinch, it’s a good option for clothing. But if it resists draping, it’s better for upholstery.” A stiffer, thicker fabric can be used for structured clothing, like jackets or collars. For spring and summer clothing, the fabric’s ability to drape and pleat is important.
“When a fabric is one hundred percent of one fiber, that’s usually an indication of the best quality,” Judy says. “But lower-quality fabric mixes can be very beautiful and still function well. Rayon is a great blending material.”
Cotton and linen can be ironed on moderate to high heat. Synthetics and silk should be ironed on low heat. If a clothing item claims to be made of one fabric, but the ironing instructions do not match that fabric — for example, if the clothing says 100 percent cotton but is labeled as non-iron — that’s an indication of low quality.
Seams Like Quality
When buying ready-made clothing, check for reinforced seams, a sign of quality construction. Look inside skirts, necklines, and sleeves for loose threads, a sign of shabby fabrication. If clothing is colored, check the laundry tag for the symbol that indicates that the garment can be washed in hot water—this means that the dye is colorfast.
Let’s Iron This Out
This presents a problem for me, because I have a beef with ironing, and not just because the folded ironing board looks like a giant upright roach. (I have named mine Kafka.)
My interviewees are unmoved.
“Whether you are buying fabric or ready-made clothing, look for breathability,” Simona explains. Breathable fabrics allow air in and heat out. “Only natural materials breathe, so fashion designers buy cotton, silk, and linen. Synthetic fabrics will trap heat close to the skin.”
Break Loose
Loose silhouettes in light colors keep wearers cool and help prevent heatstroke. A neckline that closes with a button or snap will allow for more air circulation than a closed crewneck. Flowy, mid-length skirts maintain an even body temperature better than any other length skirts.
Tips to Avoid Ironing
- Keep clothing on hangers instead of folding. When packing, roll items instead of folding them.
- If an item is machine washable, take it out of the washing machine immediately after the cycle is complete. Manually stretch the fabric with two hands, then hang on a hanger, spray with Downy Wrinkle Release, and stretch again. This will not work for perfectionists, but it will remove the most offensive wrinkles.
- To steam an item without a steamer, hang on a hanger inside a bathroom (but not within the shower). Close the shower door or curtain and turn the shower on the hottest temperature. When the room fills with steam, the worst wrinkles will ease.
- Use your iron for DIY clothing appliqués, projects that involve tiny melting bits, and as a substitute sandwich maker. It will inevitably break, and who could blame you for not ironing then? (Your mother, that’s who.)
Are You Being Fresh?
- Store clothing in breathable fabric or wood containers, such as woven baskets or cotton garment bags.
- Cedar blocks keep fabric smelling fresh and work as moth deterrents. Charcoal sachets and dried lavender also work.
- Packets of ground coffee will absorb smells. (The coffee must be in a porous container, like a chiffon bag.) This is a good option for long-term storage.
- Use wood or fabric hangers rather than metal. Metal can have interesting chemical reactions with clothing, and wire hangers can loosen a fabric’s weave.
- Items with embroidery or appliqués are best hung inside out to protect the delicate details.
- Hang items with space between each piece.
Five thousand years of human development, and some people expect me to spend time maintaining fabrics like it’s the middle ages and I have exactly one heirloom cloak. Well, excuse me while I go hyper-fixate on something else. See you next month.
Zisi Naimark has over ten years of experience as an interior designer and space planner, and has done projects all over the United States and Israel.
(Originally featured in Family First, Issue 939)
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