Advice on finding and maintaining the best shoes

NO one, least of all me, was surprised when my Temu shoes rubbed abrasions into my ankles. At $13, they were an honest failure. I had no respect for the designer boots that did the same. For advice on finding and maintaining the best shoes, I spoke to Komey Takemoto at Diane B, Maya at Bergdorf Goodman, and Jose at Elite Shoe Repair NYC.

Hands-On Experience

“You can’t tell a shoe’s quality online,” Komey says. “You have to feel the leather in person. Good leather is pliable. Even patent leather, which is stiff, should have some give to it.”

Maya demonstrates by taking a shoe off a shelf. With the toe part on the floor, she bends the heel up. “This is how the shoe bends when you walk,” she says. “It should be easy to do this with no resistance.”

All experts agree that the best leather comes from Italy, followed by Spain and then Brazil. These countries have trade counsels that are very protective of their proprietary rights and regulate the quality of their exports. If a shoe says “Made in Italy” and is sold by a reputable vendor, it is more likely to be a high-quality item.

“Except for men’s Ferragamo shoes,” Jose says. “Those are always breaking.”

Sole Cycle

Shoe soles can be made of leather, rubber, or synthetics. Leather is not made for long walks.

“Only rubber soles last,” Jose says. “The best is Vibram rubber. You turn the shoe upside down. Vibram has a yellow tag on the sole. These shoes last a very, very long time.”

Between 3/8 of an inch and two inches is the golden mean for rubber sole thickness. Adding taps adds months to the sole life.

Visible stiches between the sole and the outer part of the shoe are a good sign. If there are no stitches showing, that means the outer shell of the shoe was glued to the sole. Glue is lower-quality construction compared to stitching.

The inner part of a shoe is called the foot bed. All good foot beds will have cushioning. Push a finger into the heel part of the foot bed to see how much cushioning it has. Stick a hand in to ensure that the cushioning covers the entire surface of the foot bed.

The shape of the foot bed also determines the pitch of the shoe. A foot can rest comfortably in a high heel if the pitch is constructed correctly. “These shoes are made from the best leather and real crystal. The pitch is designed for comfort. And you’re paying for the designer’s name. That’s why they cost $1,750,” Maya says. Maya does not mention that the shoes also allow you to do your own stunts, mostly by accident.

Tips for Finding Good Shoes

Feel it, poke it, bend it, try it.

Avoid suede shoes, which shuffle off this mortal coil the minute they become damp.

According to Jose, mid-range shoes like Timberland and Rockport are much higher quality than any designer brand. (But Johnston & Murphy needs repairs more than any other shoe.)

Tips for Maintaining Shoes

After wearing, wipe shoes them with a damp cloth, except for suede.

Store in a cool, dry place.

For best results, store shoes with shaper inserts. These can be metal, wood, or stiff paper. “The average customer has time to wipe down their shoes and stuff them with shapers every day,” Maya says. (Is the average Bergdorf shopper here in the room right now? Where is she? I want to talk to her.)

For heavier cleaning, rub leather shoes with polish or conditioner. Canvas shoes can be dabbed with detergent on a soft cloth. Textured shoes, like suede, can be brushed with a specialized tool.

Wet shoes should always air-dry before being put away. Shoelaces should be replaced rather than cleaned. Some fabric shoes can go in the washing machine on cold, gentle cycles, but do not risk the dryer — it will deform the sole.

Waterproofing spray is a good option, but the spray has to match the material of the shoes. There is one spray for leather and another for fabric. The spray creates a wax-like coating on shoes. This coating offers more water resistance than waterproofing. Shoes must be clean and dry when applying the spray. Once treated, the protection lasts about a month. The spray is hazardous, so treat your shoes outdoors while wearing a mask.

Zisi Naimark has over ten years of experience as an interior designer and space planner, and has done projects all over the United States and Israel.

(Originally featured in Family First, Issue 947)