R av Saadiah Gaon it is said would do teshuvah each day: As his awareness of the Creator continuously grew and developed so too did his regret at the way he’d served his King up until that point.

Sometimes I look back at a time when all I knew about Reb Shayele of Kerestir was that his picture was said to be a segulah to ward off mice: If you saw his face on the wall of a falafel store or shawarma joint you’d know not to go there with your wife. That was it.

And when I contemplate how ignorant I was I feel shame.

This Shabbos thousands of people will be descending on the tiny village of Bodrogkeresztur in Hungary’s scenic Tokay region. Kerestir itself will be transformed its schoolhouse municipal building and private homes rented out by fortunate locals simple folk who’ve discovered that the presence of the czudde-rebbe the wonder-rabbi buried on the hill overlooking the town is as valuable to them as an oil deposit or diamond mine. Reb Shayele promised that just as people were helped while he was alive so would they continue to find salvation at his home. The house purchased and restored hums with activity throughout the year but on this Shabbos of the yahrtzeit — 3 Iyar — the magic of that bygone time returns.

Mattresses will be spread out but the Tehillims will get more use. The Rebbe’s eineklach will preside over the sacred avodah of feeding hungry Jews so central to Kerestir working out of the very same kitchen that their bubbe Rebbetzin Sarah once did.

Kerestir is for real joining Uman on Rosh Hashanah and Lizhensk in Adar as a spiritual magnet for all sorts of Jews.

What is the secret? It can’t be the quick-fix yeshuos — there are easier and cheaper segulos for those so inclined some of which you can access from your own homes. (Just click here or dial now and press 1 for shalom bayis; 2 for wealth; 3 to have your mother-in-law miss her flight. Operators are standing by to take your credit card number. See our ads where real live people with real live initials will testify to effective results!) And as far as vacations go while Kerestir is a nice little town Niagara Falls is closer and Canadians are more polite hosts.

Contemporary leaders who don’t overlap ideologically — Satmar and Belz Rabi David in Nahariya Rav Afghin in Rosh Ha’ayin — send petitioners to Kerestir. Since I’ve had the zechus of writing the newly released book on Reb Shayele I’ve heard so many new stories from non-chassidim Lakewood yeshivah guys who find that their tefillos when offered near the tziyun in Kerestir bear fruit.

Why?

A suggestion. Before Pesach Yeshivas Mir celebrated 200 years of Torah with a massive dinner in New Jersey. Talmidim were asked to come from all over North America and beyond. At a time when it’s hard to get people to go around the corner for a parlor meeting and if they go they do that thing where they don’t stop walking you know — go in greet host shake hands with rabbi drop off check keep moving grab between two and four pieces of sushi while passing the platter jam it in mouth and head out back to double-parked car while mumbling a brachah acharonah.

And yet they came. In a flood filling the huge hall to capacity and over radiating authentic joy at being there listening to the Rosh Yeshivah with genuine interest.

An insightful friend explained how the Mir had succeeded in drawing the masses at a time when others have such trouble. (Did you ever see a mosad not extend the reservation deadline for its dinner?)

It’s because the yeshivah taught each of its talmidim that they count. Back when they were 19 or 20 and uncertain perhaps self-doubting the message of the Mir was “You can shteig and you will shteig and we have a shiur for you too.” It wasn’t and isn’t a yeshivah that focuses only on the accomplished talmidei chachamim that line its benches but rather a yeshivah with a framework and a mindset that encourages maggidei shiur to set up shop so that every bochur can find the right rebbi and place that suits him.

“If you teach talmidim that they count then when you call on them to come forward they know you mean them too ” my friend said.

I thought it was a good assessment and I borrow that insight to explain the remarkable appeal of Kerestir.

Reb Shayele conveyed the message that every Jew has worth. He made sure that guests to his court were well fed and had comfortable places to sleep. He perceived that a happy person is a better husband and father that a Jew who isn’t worried about how to pay for bread can worry about real things like Torah and tefillah and tikkun hamiddos.

All sorts of Jews chassidim and Neologs sophisticated ovdim and hungry vagabonds cosmopolitan Budapest businessmen and great rebbes would descend on Kerestir. Reb Shayele received them and sent them back home laden with blessings for parnassah and good health. He didn’t say formal Torah. This was the Torah of Kerestir: You’re important!

And when a Jew feels like he exists like his Maker wants to see him happy then of course his tefillos are effective. Emunah is the strongest force in the world and Reb Shayele got them to believe. He taught them that they were worthy of blessings and that happy endings are possible. They returned that faith trusting the Rebbe to guide them to daven for them to intercede in Heaven on their behalf.

Judging from the emotions that run high in Kerestir the people still believe. As the sun sets over Bodrogkeresztur this Shabbos thousands of voices will rise from the cobblestone courtyard and pass the kever on the hillside where lies a rebbe who taught them that they — their families their successes and by extension their Divine service — are the most important thing in the world.

And so they come. Of course they come.

Zechuso yagein aleinu.

Originally featured in Mishpacha Issue 657. Yisroel Besser may be contacted directly at besser@mishpacha.com.