To determine skin’s undertone, there are a few methods. If one’s veins are greenish, they say, then one has warm yellow undertones, while blue veins indicate cool pink (I can’t tell which way my veins go, but I definitely have yellow undertones. A Sephora associate said so). Another way is to hold gold or silver jewelry against skin — which suits better? Warm skin tones look better in gold while silver is more flattering for those with cool undertones. One can also have a neutral undertone — neither predominantly pink nor yellow.

Squinting at the recommendations for a “Spring,” I do concur that bright colors work for me. As I continue to research seasonal typing, though, I become more and more confused. While my mother and sister are definite “Winters,” determining my own season is not as simple. Apparently, I can have a sallow tint while my skin is actually “blue-toned.” Maybe my highlights aren’t golden, but rather ashy? And I still don’t know what sort of blue my eyes are. I may have fed erroneous data into those quizzes.

The color charts aren’t particularly helpful. The “true red” recommended for Winters looks an awful lot like Summer’s “Watermelon.” Autumns are granted a “Deep Periwinkle Blue” while Springs are allowed “Dark Periwinkle Blue.” For real?

Then, the ultimate heresy: Jackson proclaims that black is for “Winters” alone. What nonsense!

The criteria, in my opinion, are unnecessarily limiting. After all, there are plenty of colors in my closet that are flattering, even if they aren’t specific to my “season.” Isn’t shopping stressful and restricting enough without entering a store with a proscribed list of colors? Sometimes an atypical hue can be surprisingly flattering. Could it be with my nisht-a-heen nisht-a-hare skin tone, maybe I’m not any specific “season”? I’m dubious that all women on earth fall into only four categories.

Perhaps for women who can easily categorize their coloring (like my mother and sister), seasonal typology is helpful. But for myself? I could be way off in terms of what season I am, which means I’d be restricting myself to the wrong color palette.

In the end, I decide to abide by my mother’s dictum: “Just TRY. IT. ON!!!” I’ve often been surprised how an unassuming clothing item in hand can be completely transformative in a dressing room mirror. So, this is my recommended method: Try it on and see.

Is It a Match?

Even if one does not abide by an official system of colors, there are still a number of basic rules. Can an ensemble be “okay”? Yes. But by swapping a top or bottom for another shade, it can turn “okay” to “wow.”

Example: My niece was showing me a WhatsApp picture of her newly engaged classmate and her chassan. The young fellow was wearing a navy blazer with black slacks.

NO.

No, no, no, no, NO.

Now, I’m not going to be adamant that navy and black can never be worn together. But in this case, there’s a much better option that takes this ensemble from “eh” to “YES!”

Navy blazer and… gray slacks.

Navy and gray are an ideal couple. Together, they’re classy, chic, and quite simply, perfection.

I can hear the objections: “What about that sleeveless navy dress of mine? Do you know how hard it is to find a navy shell? You’re saying I can’t wear black?”

Sweetie, I’m in the trenches with you. The shell struggle is real. But again, there are few hard-and-fast rules besides try it on. Maybe that specific dress is able to pull it off. Or, is the dress in question not actually navy, but another shade of blue? I have a short-sleeved sapphire blue top that blends beautifully with a black shell and skirt.

I’d still recommend finding a matching navy layer, or perhaps going off the reservation with another shade, possibly a neutral like camel or gray. Maybe even a brighter shade of blue, season-permitting. (The one exception to the navy-black concern is denim. While denim can be navy, the nature of the fabric places it in another category, and so black can be worn with it devoid of any concern.)

One of the reasons why navy and black are not a great match is because they’re too close for comfort. A washed-out black garment can be mistaken for navy. Even two different shades of black can be jarring, never mind an almost-there shade like navy.

This idea applies to another pairing: white and cream. Cream, next to white, appears dingy; next to nearly any other color it is vibrantly charming.

Now, neutrals. Neutral shades are good options to tame exciting hues. It’s all about balance. Neutrals tend to be white, cream, khaki, brown, gray, navy, black. Yet there’re also punchier neutrals, like metallics or even leopard print.

Some neutrals are ideal together, like black and white, an always striking combination. An interesting white blouse with a black skirt is a classic, and a guaranteed success.

The Color Wheel

Let’s move on to colors. Behold, the color wheel:

The primary colors are red, blue, and yellow. Analogous colors are the ones to the immediate left and right — for instance, the analogous colors of blue are green and purple. Contrasting colors are the one opposite; the contrasting color of red is green. (Pink is synonymous with red.)

If wearing two primary colors, think twice before throwing in a third (if wearing red and navy, opt for white, cream, or khaki rather than yellow). Analogous colors are a good pairing, like green and blue. Contrasting colors can be done, but under extreme caution.

Monochromatic themes are another fashion option: pale lavender with dark purple, for instance. Monochromatic neutrals — khaki and brown, light gray and dark gray — are also perfectly acceptable.

What if we aren’t dealing with solids? We’ll tackle patterns.

Finding Patterns

To be frank, I am very, very leery of patterns. Babi was dead set against them. There are a few exceptions — glen plaid, houndstooth, gingham, pinstripes, polka dots — that are not overwhelming and are practically neutrals (they can be worn with bright colors). But overly busy patterns can annihilate an outfit, and chances are might not be as flattering as a solid.

Some garments will keep a pattern restricted to one area, like along a hem, which won’t affect the perception of one’s midriff. The rule try it on applies, to determine if a hectic floral is right for you.

Okay, so you’ve tried it on. The wearer is smitten with the hectic floral. How to match it? Let’s say we’re working with a sleeveless dress, or perhaps a skirt. What color should the top be? I’d recommend that instead of relying on any random neutral, try to find a color that’s in the pattern itself. It doesn’t have to be prominent, as long as it’s present. A hint of navy? A smidgen of black? Pair with a solid in that shade.

In terms of a shell for a sleeveless dress, try to abide by the overall dark — or lightness — of the garment. If the dress is dark-hued, keep the shell in the same ballpark. With separates there’s more leeway in terms of a light/dark contrast, so long as the top and bottom tie into each other with coordinating colors somewhere — but not with two different patterns.

I find that it’s mostly about what’s pleasing to the eye, and that’s usually where try it on works best. For instance, let’s say one has a patterned skirt, navy plaid against light gray fabric. While a white (a neutral) blouse does pair “okay” with it, there’s a “wow” effect with a navy sweater instead, which picks up the plaid in the skirt. The overall result is more appealing to the eye than the first ensemble.

If one truly loves a certain color that does nothing for them, there’s a loophole: wearing it as a bottom garment. Meaning a skirt. It’s the facial skin tone that’s of primary concern, so if far away, chances are it won’t have a detrimental effect on skin. What’s detrimental? Washed-out. Sallow. Red-skinned. The right color will make the face glow.

Attuned to the Mood

One day, I was walking out of the train station when a woman ahead of me caught my eye. She was wearing light brown leopard print slacks and black suede boots with sparkling silver heels. I was jarred enough that this image embedded itself in my mind.

Upon contemplation, I noted her error; the leopard print was a warm golden brown; the heels a cool silver. The two together clashed instead of flowed. She should have opted for solid black, brown, or other warm-colored footwear.

Does it follow that silver can never be worn with gold? Not at all. I rarely dabble in absolutes, but there does have to be some sort of guideline. Those who possess adornments in only one shade don’t have this concern, but many of us have both gold and silver (white gold and platinum is also included here) in our bling boxes.

Rings should not have the power to demand monochromic jewelry; they’re in a category of their own. For my own sensitivities, I prefer my earrings and necklace to be the same color since they are visually close, while I may go another way for bracelets, which are further away. (The color of hardware on purses need not be factored in.)

What about shoes? When in doubt, nude. Nude shoes can be worn with practically anything, weather permitting (if it’s freezing out, it’s probably not suitable).

A “quiet” outfit (e.g., all gray) can be taken from “okay” to “wow” with bright accessories, like bright shoes, scarf, and/or handbag. While winter means that black tights are the go-to rather than sheer stockings, that doesn’t mean shoes have to be black too. Splashes of color provide an ensemble with a feisty edge.

While I love bright colors, I don’t believe in overloading on them. I try to stick to no more than three colors per ensemble (less if one is a pattern), although a fourth can be a neutral. It’s about balance.

Some “fashionistas” think that chic means going overboard, wearing wool plaids with cotton florals, but that look isn’t sharp, it comes off as random. It’s all about pleasing the eye with a cohesive, coherent look, and that includes the weight of the fabric. Obviously, heavy knobby wool is not for warm weather; a thin cotton blouse is not to be donned in winter. (Yes, yes, even though it’s a new outfit for Pesach, but it’s 50 degrees out! It will have to wait.)

There’s also maintaining the tone of an outfit. A formal, beribboned, pink Shabbos suit should not be worn with serviceable black suede loafers. An ornate, pleated, tucked, structured skirt should not be paired with an unstructured, shapeless top. There’s weekday. There’s Shabbos. There are standards.

But sometimes we can be our own worst enemy. We fall in love with something on the hanger, we run with it to the dressing room, but the mirror says, “Take it off!” The heart wants what it wants, however — despite the reflection’s horror.

I make it a policy to only shop in stores with a forgiving return policy. The lighting in dressing rooms may not always be ideal, so the full effect can’t always be seen unless trying it on in the comfort of one’s home, or in daylight. Very often, after further contemplation, the initial obsession fades away and one sheepishly realizes that overall appearance matters more than blind dress love.

Another set of eyes can be extremely helpful. Not just any pair of eyes, mind, but a pair that can be trusted to perceive without bias. She should be able to help guide her fellow shopper if a garment is a thumbs-up or -down. “That color is stunning on you!” “It’s pretty… but not on you.” “Take it off!”

To conclude: “He who wishes to become a master of color must see, feel, and experience each individual color in its endless combinations with all other colors,” said Johannes Itten. And so I say again: TRY IT ON. See what looks best, not adequate. An atypical combination may pleasantly surprise you. Keep an open mind.

But not too open.

Universally Flattering Colors (besides black):

• blue, in nearly every form; powder blue, turquoise, periwinkle, navy
• teal
• blush pink
• eggplant
• true red (neither too orange or too blue in undertone)
• stone/taupe

Classy Color Combos to Consider

• black + white + a bright (hot pink, red, teal)
• orange + blue
• pink + blue or gray (ideal for warm seasons)
• mustard + berry/burgundy (ideal for chillier months)

(Originally featured in Family First, Issue 636)