The three components that combine to soothe your skin

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’ve mentioned Vaseline and Aquaphor more than once for their skin-loving properties. They’re made primarily from petrolatum, which is an occlusive.

Occlusives are a type of ingredient usually found in moisturizers. They act as sealants, keeping in whatever is on the skin. Occlusives don’t do any hydrating or softening on their own; they simply form a barrier to ensure that nothing on or under the skin can get out. (Alternatively, in the case of wound care, they prevent anything from getting in.)

Our skin is constantly losing water via transepidermal water loss (TEWL). Water moves up through the layers of skin and evaporates into the air. Our bodies release about 1.5 cups of water a day through this passive process. It’s a separate function from active sweating; it can happen even while lying on the couch.

The process of TEWL can be exacerbated by low-humidity conditions, which causes even more water to be drawn away from the skin, as well as by harsh skin treatments that can cause gaps in the skin barrier through which even more water can escape. The less water there is in the skin, the more dry, cracked, irritated, and tight the skin is. Occlusives help offset TEWL by sealing in the water.

Moisturizers also contain humectants (hyaluronic acid, glycerin, panthenol) that draw water into skin. The skin works like a sponge, which is why it’s ideal to apply moisturizers to damp skin. Thick creams will also spread better on skin that is damp.

Moisturizers will also have emollients (ceramides, squalane, dimethicone) that soften skin by filling in gaps in skin cells to smooth out texture. Emollients can also have a mild occlusive effect.

For those with dry skin, occlusive ingredients will definitely help soften your skin, but oily skin will probably be unhappy. Oily skin is particularly sensitive to ingredients that are sealants, so avoid Vaseline and heavy creams. Remember, skincare isn’t one-size-fits-all; work with your skin type.

My current favorite moisturizer is Cetaphil Moisturizing Cream, which contains occlusives, humectants, and emollients. The CeraVe Moisturizing Cream leans less occlusive than the Cetaphil, if you want something a little less thick. Eucerin Original Healing Cream leans even more occlusive — I spot-use it where needed, like on dry lips or a nose raw from tissues (all three are available at Costco; the Eucerin is behind the pharmacy counter there).

Coddling Damaged Skin

This hasn’t happened to me in some time, so it was quite the shock: I tried a new product, and it scorched my face.

I don’t know if my mistake was combining a serum with other actives, or taking on a salicylic acid cleanser for my hormonal acne, but in any case, I now had raw, flaky patches on my poor punim.

So what’s the protocol?

First : I typically double-cleanse. I used my usual oil-based cleanser (Palmer’s Cleansing Oil), but instead of a strong acne-targeted cleanser for the second cleanse, I opted instead for my kids’ Dove baby wash.

Second: All other go-to serums and treatments were suspended. No anti-aging, no anti-acne.

Third : Do you trust me? Do you really? Okay, here goes: Diaper cream.

Wait, wait! Diaper creams contain high percentages of zinc oxide, the same zinc oxide in mineral sunscreen. Zinc oxide has many benefits, aside from sun protection. Being anti-inflammatory and antibacterial, it helps heal minor wounds, and the petrolatum in the cream is an occlusive, protecting skin from further irritation.

So, skin getting mad after starting retinoids? Got sunburned? Skin red and itchy? Try diaper cream before bed. This might not be the best option for those with acne-prone or oily skin, but I felt safe enough spot-dabbing it to my burned areas.

I had a tube of Balmex handy so I used that. (We tried many different brands on our kids and Balmex was a clear winner in the case of nasty diaper rash.) It doesn’t really matter what brand you use; just be sure the diaper cream contains zinc oxide, and is ideally fragrance-free.

Fourth: My favorite moisturizer for night is the aforementioned Cetaphil Moisturizing Cream. Despite its light, fluffy texture, my face feels richly quenched without suffocating my skin. I thickly applied it without my usual retinoids or brightening serums.

Fifth: In the morning, I typically use a mineral sunscreen (the Neutrogena Purescreen+ Mineral UV Tint Face Liquid Sunscreen), which also has zinc oxide, so this was no different, except I didn’t apply any of my usual serums underneath, like vitamin C serum.

My skin felt soothed rather quickly, and a week later I’m still waiting out a few more marks, but the raw patches are nearly gone.

(Originally featured in Family First, Issue 976)