Let’s debunk some skincare myths

Myth: Sunscreen prevents the body from developing and absorbing vitamin D.

So this is technically true. However, there a few caveats. Very rarely is sunscreen applied with 100% perfection (I’m including myself here), so chances are, somewhere on the body, skin is getting a hit of sunshine and vitamin D. Additionally, sunscreen itself has limitations; SPF 30 blocks 97% of UV rays and SPF 50 blocks 98%. Two percent may not sound like much, but it’s enough for the body to get what it needs. Also, the sun is also not the only source of vitamin D — foods such as fish and egg yolks contain it, as well as supplements (my husband likes the Maxi-Health liquid gels). In the end, it’s more important to protect skin from cancerous damage than depend on getting vitamin D from the sun alone.

Myth: Pop that pimple!

As a recovering pop-aholic, don’t make my mistakes. Popping pimples can shove bacteria deeper into skin, causing more redness and swelling, and potentially infection. In turn, this can also lead to scarring. Further, there is the “The Triangle of Death” — a facial zone that runs from the bridge of the nose down to the corners of the mouth. Popping a pimple in that territory can have a terrifying (albeit rare) consequence: The blood vessels in the “triangle” connect nearly directly to the brain, so pimple bacteria could end up in the brain and sinus cavities and cause drama.

So don’t do it.

Alternative options: A hot compress for ten minutes to draw the pus to the skin’s surface and kickstart healing. Spot treatments with sulfur or salicylic acid to dry them out, such as De La Cruz Acne Treatment with 10% Sulfur (love it!) or CeraVe Salicylic Acid Acne Treatment Control Gel. Hydrocolloid patches to draw out the pus like Neutrogena Stubborn Acne Pimple Patches, or Starface Hydro-Star + Salicylic Acid Pimple Patches (they have salicylic acid built right in!). If there’s a monster pimple along with a major event, a dermatologist can inject cortisone to shrink it.

Myth: If it’s tingling or burning, it’s working!

That’s how I scorched my skin off right before a family wedding with a too-high-percentage chemical peel. Okay, granted, I do get some tingling when I use a 10% glycolic serum, but it shouldn’t be throbbing. If skin is mad, listen to it.

Myth: When it comes to skincare, the more, the merrier!

No. When it comes to skincare, using fewer products that are higher in efficacy is better than using multiple products that aren’t proven to do much. Ads that proclaim, “Our cream has exotic, obscure ingredients that will make skin ravishing!” are misleading. Products should be used with intent, education, and discretion. Don’t just slap it on unless its purpose and efficacy are known.

Then, for some, using too many products can cause skin irritation; too many “actives” (e.g., glycolic acid and retinoids) at once can destroy the skin barrier.

Yes, yes, most go cross-eyed when I list the products I use, but I don’t really use that many. My daily routine takes just a few minutes. Stick to retinol and sunscreen. Boring, basic, but the best.

Myth: The eye area needs different products.

Eye skin is different from face skin. The skin is thinner, which means it’s more susceptible to damage. There’s less subcutaneous fat so it shows signs of aging faster than facial skin. Eye skin also tends to be more sensitive, possibly due to fewer oil glands.

Does this mean that it needs different products? Not really. If addressing a specific eye concern, like puffiness or dark circles, then yes. But regular moisturizer works there just as well as it does anywhere else, as does vitamin C serum.

There are exceptions: Prescription retinoids are too strong for the eye area, so one can use RoC Retinol Correxion Line Smoothing Eye Cream instead, or thickly moisturize the area first before applying retinoids, to prevent irritation. Also, do not apply glycolic acid or any other exfoliation treatment there.

Myth: Drinking water hydrates skin.

Drinking water boosts blood flow and makes skin elastic from deeper in the skin’s layers, but it doesn’t hydrate the skin’s upper layers. If skin is dry and flaky, it needs topical moisturizers, not internal H2O.

Myth: “Natural” or “clean” skincare is better for you.

“Natural” or “clean” doesn’t necessarily translate into “better.” Yes, aloe vera is natural, but so is poison ivy. I went through my jojoba oil phase... until it broke me out. Just because something is natural, it doesn’t necessarily mean that it’s the best for skin.

As for “clean,” there isn’t a standardized definition of what it means. It could mean nontoxic, or environmentally responsible, or…?

If one has reactive skin, “natural” or “clean” won’t help. Brands like Vanicream, Cetaphil, or Cerave are formulated for sensitive skin, to be gentle, yet effective, with scientific backing.

(Originally featured in Family First, Issue 959)