A guide to pigmentation-free skin

Hyperpigmentation

Just a few months ago, I was shocked to see a smattering of dark spots running along my upper cheekbone. Sun spots?! Me?! The outrage!

This was in conjunction with a rather annoying resurgence of acne, which apparently can smite those on the cusp of 40 as well as teenagers. The acne marks were, annoyingly, not fading as fast as I would have liked.

Thusly, I have been afflicted by hyperpigmentation, a long, cumbersome word for any dark, lingering marks on the skin, no matter the cause. It could be sun spots, post-acne marks, or melasma. Linked to hormonal changes, melasma can affect pregnant women with dark, large patches on facial skin.

The common exacerbating culprit of all hyperpigmentation? The sun.

Skin must be protected. It must. As a skincare guru, I am ashamed to admit that I must have dropped the SPF ball somewhere, because how did I get sun spots!? (I admit it — I’m not great at reapplication.) But I learned that when it comes to SPF, the basic version isn’t enough. For hyperpigmentation, tinted sunscreen is the heavy hitter.

Non-tinted sunscreens protect from ultraviolet light, the light not visible to the naked eye, which causes DNA damage and skin breakdown. Tinted sunscreens contain further protection with iron oxides (that also provide pigment in makeup foundations) that shields skin from visible light as well. Visible light is hyperpigmentation’s criminal associate.

I have tried many (many, many) tinted sunscreens, and my favorite by far is Neutrogena Purescreen+ Tinted Mineral Sunscreen, SPF 30. It provides sheer coverage if I wear it alone, it doesn’t pill under makeup, and the finish is great for many skin types. One issue I had with tinted sunscreens was that one-shade options were very orange (Oompa Loompa), but the Neutrogena is available in four shades.

For those with oily skin that needs serious mattifying, there’s Australian Gold Botanical Tinted Face Sunscreen Lotion SPF 50 (three shades). For dry skin that needs serious hydration, there’s CeraVe Hydrating Mineral Sunscreen SPF 30 Face Sheer Tint (also three shades).

Protecting your skin with tinted sunscreen can both prevent hyperpigmentation and help with existing spots. But there are additional options for further action.

While it would be nice if one product or treatment could tackle them all, they tend to require a multipronged approach. Some of these ingredients are sold by themselves, but many of them are sometimes combined into one product.

Here are some of the contenders:

• Tranexamic acid: A multitasker, it prevents skin from reacting to melanin triggers like sunlight by inhibiting the interaction between melanocytes (which product melanin) and keratinocytes (which produce the keratin in skin). It also inhibits the production of tyrosinase, an enzyme necessary for melanin production.
• Kojic acid: Derived from fungi, this also fights tyrosinase.
• Niacinamide: A form of vitamin B3, this is also a heavy lifter with many applications, as well as disrupting melanocyte communication.
• Alpha arbutin: A synthetic form of arbutin, a compound found in certain berries. Its structure is similar to tyrosine, an amino acid that binds to tyrosinase and neutralizes it.
• Licorice extract: Contains two compounds, glabridin and liquiritin; glabridin fights tyrosinase, and liquiritin targets existing melanin.

  The above five ingredients are often combined in one product. For instance, Naturium Tranexamic Topical Acid 5% also includes kojic acid, niacinamide, and licorice root; Naturium also carries single ingredient serums for niacinamide and alpha arbutin. (I like Naturium because their products are in pumps rather than droppers. Pet peeve of mine.)

• Vitamin C: Among its many talents, it also reduces tyrosinase. Options: Naturium or CeraVe Vitamin C Serums.
• Azelaic acid: Reduces redness in skin, including red, raised post-acne marks (known as post-inflammatory erythema). It’s available over the counter in ten percent strength (by The Ordinary, Naturium, and Walgreens brand); higher concentrations require a prescription.

Many of the listed ingredients can be applied under sunscreen in the morning and under retinoids at night — hyperpigmentation needs a united front of many players. But keep in mind that some skin might take objection to that and get irritated, so go slow.

Many of these above ingredients are also anti-inflammatory, which can help prevent hyperpigmentation in the first place. For instance, applying Vitamin C before sunscreen can boost its efficacy.

• Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) and retinoids: I’ve covered these two before, so quick recap: AHAs (such as glycolic acid) unglue the dead, pigmented skin cells, coaxing fresher, unpigmented cells beneath to the surface, while retinoids also reveal younger skin and inhibit tyrosinase. Chemical peels are a stronger application of AHAs; those that are light and medium strength can be applied by an aesthetician. Note: Darker skin tones tend to get more hyperpigmentation with chemical peels.

Results can take some time. Like, a few months. So if you want faster results, consult with a dermatologist about options such as hydroquinone (a bleaching agent), laser, or deep chemical peels.

(Originally featured in Family First, Issue 956)